![[cover 'art' by Deimos]](sugarloaf_t.gif)
Mark 'Indy' Kochte
31st E-edition (31.4), updated June 4, 2007
Updated: June, 2002, amended July 2002, and again Oct 2002, and again November 2002, again Jan 2003, and as needed in May-August 2003
Over the years many of you have been using this guide to escape the maddening crowds at Great Falls and Carderock, or just to find new places to climb when you couldn't get out on road trips. More than a few of you have learned of small outcroppings just down the road from you, maybe 10-15 minutes away from your house. Others have given me feedback on historical routes when I had incorrect information. And yes, a couple of you were less than happy that I had revealed your "hidden" climbing spot that almost no one knew about before I posted it here. For the latter, I'm sorry, but with the exception of Sugarloaf and White Rocks, all the areas covered herein are on public land. And sooner or later they would be found, anyway (many had; word just hadn't gotten out yet). And probably had already been found long ago by others. The guide has increased traffic to some areas (notably Sugarloaf), but the impact to most areas really has not been that dramatic. A few more people show up than did before, but if it was crowded prior to this guide, it remains so now. And if it wasn't, it still does not get the number of visitors that it could potentially get. In any event, that's not what this section is here to discuss.
This guide has been in electronic form since late-1989/early-1990. It evolved from a small file on a few routes to this rather substantial document. In the last half dozen years it has received a great deal of attention, and this has led to the realization that this guide needs to be published...for real. Since the winter of 2000/2001 I had been working very hard on converting this online guide (and all the notes I have to other areas that just never got into this guide) into an honest-to-god real book. For this reason the online updates had really slowed down quite a bit since 2001.
As of May, 2003, the book, after much pain and many tears and hours of
arduous labor, has finally come out!!! You can find it on the shelves
at Earth Treks climbing gyms, Hudson Trail Outfitters, REI, The Trailhouse, and
Potomac Outdoors¹. It can also be found online at
www.amazon.com,
Barnes & Noble, and REI.Com.
Eventually other places should carry it (well, we hope so, anyway). Those may
include EMS and Galyans. Stay tuned...
¹ - I just learned recently (Nov, 2003) that Potomac Outdoors folded shop as a retail business. Most unfortunate, as they had a nice selection of gear in their shop!
Now that it is out in real form, in accordance to my publisher's wishes, much of the information contained herein this online guide has been brought down. Not everything, but a lot of stuff. Most all the material that is in the book itself, anyway. I'm sorry for the online readership for this change. This is because my publisher is concerned that y'all out there will opt to take the currently seriously out-dated info from the web rather than buy the book. I happen to feel strongly in the contrary on this. Given the vast amount of material that is covered in the guidebook, this online guide, for one, cannot compete. Secondly, 99% (or more!) of you out there are going to want to have the actual book anyway (assuming you're not in the "poor college student" camp and can't afford it - which I totally understand, having been a poor college student myself once). I mean, how many of you have the resources to keep printing out this online document each and every time it gets an update? And how many of you would rather have an actual book to put on your shelves instead? My point exactly.
When you get your hands on the book you will find some small errors here and there. I tried and tried, but minor little things kept being overlooked in lieu of the larger errors that needed correcting. I believe all the big errors were caught and fixed. It should only be little, insignificant ones at this point (but I've been looking at the manuscript for SO long now that I'm mostly reading what it should say, not what it actually says, so if I missed something significant, please forgive and point it out to me). One of the new purposes of this online guide will be to provide corrections and errata to the material in the book, as well as information on new routes and areas as they come to light. With the latter in mind (and considering I've come across, discovered, or learned of nearly a dozen new areas since the manuscript was finished), the online guide will continue as a resource for you to use for climbing in places the book does not cover. Areas such as Lamb's Knoll, Balcony Rock (or Sandy Hook, depending) Rocky Gap State Park, and Kelbel Krag, to name a few.
If there is a second edition to the guide, the new material on the website here will appear in there. In the mean time, I hope you still find the information in this online guide useful and useable, and that you won't feel 'betrayed' that much of the original online material has vanished on you, forcing you to go and spend your hard-earned money to buy it (trust me, I'm not doing this guidebook thing for the money!). It's just a logical extension of the life of this guide.
Now, in the distant future, should the guidebook itself go out of print, much of the information may very well show back up on the 'Net here. But the book will be cooler to have. ;-)
That said....get out there and go climbing!
Some of the tallest climbing may be found at Rocks State Park, where routes can reach upwards of 80' for top-roping (or leading), and where there exists a few two-pitch (120+') moderate grade lead routes. Maryland Heights, having a number of top-rope and one pitch routes, also offers a few routes of nearly 200', necessitating lead climbing. The Friction Wall area offers some bolted leads, though most, if not all, can be top-roped. Annapolis Rocks and Black Rock have some moderate to tall cliffs (~50-70') and are mainly top-roped, but a number of routes be led as the rock structure is somewhat Gunk-like (eg, a lot of horizontal cracks). Most of the other routes are small, short crags that see small to modest amounts of traffic (except Ilchester, which gathers crowds from the Baltimore area on weekday afternoons).
For those high-tech climbers with GPSr units, I have included coordinates to the various climbing areas (and in cases of large areas such as Sugarloaf and the Narrows, included coordinates for various sections of the cliffs). All coordinates are WGS84. Please be aware that there have been incidents of people throwing stuff (bottles, cans, rocks) off the cliffs, despite the presence of climbers. This has been a problem at Sugarloaf, White Rocks, Annapolis Rocks, Rocks State Park, and Maryland Heights, but other areas are not immune to this happening. Be aware of your surroundings! In some locales (Rocks State Park and Maryland Heights) the rangers take a dim view of people throwing anything off the cliffs - esp if there are climbers below. There exist no such authoritative figures at the other areas noted in this guide. Take whatever actions you deem appropriate (I'm not saying to go throw the offenders themselves off the cliffs...though the thought has crossed my mind now and again).
While this guide covers pretty much all of Central Maryland possible, Great Falls (Md) and Carderock are currently left out as there are already a couple of guidebooks out there which cover these areas reasonably well. If there is need, a future edition may expand on these areas. We will see.
It is hoped that this guide will enable to user to seek out and explore new climbing areas, to give a different experience compared to the 'standard' Carderock/Great Falls visits. Please report any new route information, or any updated information regarding the routes herein (such as grade correction, names, etc), to the author.
All photos herein by the author, unless otherwise noted.
HEY! HELLO!! YES, YOU!! ROCK CLIMBING IS A DANGEROUS ACTIVITY!! You do it, you take full responsibility for any consequences that happen (ie, climb safe, and things will be well). This guide will not help you climb any better, nor safer. It will not make you more buff. It's not an instruction in how to climb. It will not do your dishes, or your homework. It will not clean your apartment, or make you a better driver. It's a resource for locating areas where climbing is possible. It's for reading purposes only. Any use beyond that means you have unconditionally agreed to accept full responsibility for whatever results from your actions. Any use of this guide for climbing means you, the reader (and climber) release the author (and any other providers of said guide) from liability for any injury, including death, that may result. Gravity sucks. Learn it, live it, love it. You have been warned.
Okay, that said and done,
GO CLIMBING!
New info thanks to: Lynn Addie, James Anastasion, Heather Blackwell, Jim Cox, Bobby Curry, Carlos Carro Dupla, Joe Duva, Larry Duva, Pat Egan, Aura Garrison, Phil Hodge, Walter "Doc" Holiday, Mike Hopkins, Christian Kammerer, Shawn McIntosh, Mikl Law, Johannes Reisert, Robert 'Bud' Roper, Vanessa 'Ness' Peterson, Lisa V. Smith, George Spence, Mike Varlotta, Annie Wislowski.
Copyright © 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994 (email notes: 1993, 1992, 1991, 1990) - M Kochte
Sugarloaf Mountain is a privately owned and managed conservation/recreation area. Visitors are invited to participate in a wide variety of outdoor recreational activities which include hiking, horseback riding, picnicking and nature study. The mountain is open every day of the year from sunrise to sunset. Darkness can come quickly here so please be aware of this and make appropriate arrangements to be off the property by sunset. Please remember that all natural features are protected, so do not pick plants, disturb wildlife, or remove rocks. Fires and overnight camping are prohibited. Alcohol is not permitted. And climbing is at your own risk!
There are a number of areas within the Sugarloaf Mountain enviroment for one to climb at. At this time climbing is a low-profile activity there: the people of Stronghold Inc are permitting it - as long as you are careful, don't go messing with the wildlife (ie, leave the damned raven's nest alone when it's up on Butterfingers, okay??), and don't disturb others (this is rarely a problem; most times it's the tourist/hiker types who are stopped to watch you climb, especially if you're at Boy Scout Ledges). Also, please, PLEASE be off the rocks and down to the cars/parking lot by the closing time (generally sunset). The landowners are not hostile to climbers, but it seems that more and more they are waiting on climbers to vacate the premises so they can lock up. If this keeps up, they may close or limit climbing here. Please be out on time.
Also, to assist relations between the landowners and climbers, volunteer to help out with train maintenance if possible. They have on-going trail work days throughout the spring/summer/fall season (as of 1997, the contact person was Russ Thompson at 301-874-2024 or 301-869-7846). In addition to this, helping keep the cliffs clean of trash they do appreciate. Bring a plastic bag with you whenever you go and take a few minutes at the end of your day (or start of it) and pick up the broken glass, cans, cig butts, whatnot you find laying around. The landowners are quite grateful when you do this (hell, you prolly should do this where ever you go ;-), and this will help solidify landowner/climber relations. This problem is especially prevalent out at White Rocks (I've pulled more than a few bags of glass and trash out of there over the years).
Food: Every weekend from the end of July to the end of October the snack shack at the start of the West View parking area is open. The food offered is pretty basic: soft drinks (saw Gatorade sold there, too), candies, chips, and hot dogs. Not a gourmet place, but if you're hungry and can stomach hot dogs and/or chips, here you go! Otherwise, you're on your own for food and drinks.
A climber called Bri on A Flake Called Lee
Sugarloaf itself is known as a monadnock: a lone mountain that remains after the erosion of the surrounding land. Here, that process took place approximately 14 million years ago. At an elevation of 1282 feet, Sugarloaf stands more than 800 feet above the farmland below. The outcroppings of rock scattered throughout are composed primarily of quartzite, the predominant type of rock on the mountain.
The dominant tree species on Sugarloaf are both the red and white groups of oaks. These trees are currently being threatened by oak decline, a result of several factors of which the gypsy moth is a part. Other trees include black gum, tulip poplar, black birch, and eastern hemlock. There are more than 500 species of plants here, including a variety of wildflowers. These one can find blooming throughout the spring and summer months.
There are a number of animals in the region. Occassionally one might spot a white-tailed deer (though with the current crowds this is difficult at best, unless one takes one of the spur trails away from the summit proper). Also around are flying squirrels, red fox, eastern cottontail, raccoon, and 'normal' squirrels and chipmunks. The birds in the area include the great horned owl, pileated woodpecker (heard often, rarely seen), wild turkey, red-shouldered hawk, and, most common, turkey vultures (who have this uncanny and almost disturbing habit of circling above climbers...).
PLEASE be aware that this is also the habitat of the timber rattlesnake and copperhead! The author of this has not run across either of these yet, but do be aware that these creatures do reside here, too. Somewhere...
Bring long runners, or short/medium/long runners and medium-sized pro (tri-cams, hexes, nuts, Friends) for anchoring. There are hefty trees and boulders in this area, but they are rather far back from the cliff edges, and you'll need some pretty l-o-n-g (20-40') anchors to reach them!
For the most part there are relatively few deaths/injuries at Sugarloaf, but they have occurred from time to time. To my knowledge these have exclusively been non-climbers doing stupid things (see quote at the start of this section; said partier was reported to be "pretty messed up" after he finished rolling to the bottom). Note, though, that Stronghold, Inc, does not encourage climbing here, but they do allow it. However, as soon as there is a serious climber injury, or a climbing-related death, this place will be shut down to climbing so fast your head will spin - BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!! If you see anyone doing stupid or unsafe things, please intervene. It'll just take one person getting seriously hurt (or dead) to have this entire climbing area shut down permenantly.
Unless you don't care, that is. Then please stay away from here yourself.
GPS coords: (from over Bloodguard
Lat: N 39° 15.697'
Long: W077° 23.636'
This is the first rock outcropping you come to on the right as you are heading up the Green Trail from the West View Parking area. It is a 120' broken length of cliff that has its highest point at about 50' up (averaging 30-40' overall).
On May 29, 2005, a climber leading Rhythm Roof took a fall on a cam placed in the roof. The resulting fall blew out the block the came was on, narrowly missing his belayer (who escaped with a scratched shin). The climber also missed decking due to other gear in the rock. The climb has been altered from this incident (fortunately no one was seriously hurt!), and apparently now rated about 5.11. However, there is apparently still a loose flake on the climb that will eventually come out and might change the nature of the climb again. Please take care when climbing in this area (and anywhere else for that matter), as rock does break. It's not as permenant as we would like it to be (see the disclaimer above!!).
This area is closed during the spring season for raven nesting - STAY AWAY FROM THIS AREA WHILE THE RAVENS ARE NESTING! This can occur anywhere from late March to early April, and last until late May or early June (or whenever the birds are done nesting and the fledglings have flown the coup). It is unique that these ravens nest here on Sugarloaf, for this is just about as far south as they get (Maryland is not in the general ranging area of the raven). Please help Stronghold, Inc, in protecting this species by observing the 'area closed' during nesting season. Once the young ones are all fledged, the area will open up once again (hey, if they can handle this in Colorado [and other places] for Peregrin Falcon nesting, you can handle it on this little area in Maryland for the ravens). Note, there usually will be signs posted about the area being closed, but they may not always be easily seen those coming directly up from the parking area and veering off to the crag. Please go a little further up the trail during this season to make sure there are no posted signs for the area. Thanks.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 15.725'
Long: W077° 23.612'
Continue up the Green Path past the Middle Earth area. As you go up the stairs before you rises out of the ground a large, large boulder (it's huge for a boulder). There is, unfortunately, spray paint over sections of it. The lower north (stair-side) section has a small overhang where Little Hercstarts. Pebbles And Bam-Bam begin on the overly pebbled main wall facing down the trail/stairs.
Anchors for this area are generally long (30'+) webbing and/or medium-sized gear.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 15.742'
Long: W077° 23.611'
As you continue up, passing The Pillar, the stairs turn 90-degrees to the left for a 15'. Before you, about 50 feet away, is a short wall criss-crossed by cracks with a prominent pointed roof sticking out on the right side. Follow a path from the top of the stairs left over to the wall. There is a short bouldering wall on the right as you walk towards the main section of Boy Scout Ledges. Great area to practice technique or to take beginners. Or be filmed by the weekend city hikers as they walk by ~100' behind you. Sometimes you can encounter firefighting personnel here practicing rescue techniques (I myself have come here to practice self-rescue techniques on occasion).
![[left side of the Prow]](prow.jpeg)
Anchors here generally utilize the nearby trees and boulders, although The
Prow takes medium-sized gear in its blocky top.
Mikl's Route (5.12a) - The aid route, Spiderman's Route, up the center of The Prow roof, was led cleanly and freed by Mikl Law on July 17, 2004. It is a big reach problem. Hook with your left foot under the roof and match hands on a crimper halfway out on the right. Off the crimper slap to a sloper at the edge of the roof. Once past this, pull up and top off.
Detached and uphill (to the right 30') from the Boy Scout Ledges is a short, 15' high bouldering wall, facing downhill. Some people boulder the problems (the traverse problem is fun). Those more timid (ie, those not into potentially breaking their ankles!) can drop a short top-rope on here. You might need some medium and large-sized pro to do it, though. There are a number of variations that you can do. Most-climbed is the right half of the wall, full of features and finger ledges. But be not too fooled. Looks can be deceiving...
PS: if you want to boulder the wall, do one favor: be careful, don't fall, okay? And if you do fall, don't break an ankle.
Highway (5.4?) - Start in the middle, follow the severely left-leaning crack up and left, then climb up the center left half of the wall. There are not as many features on this half of the wall as there are on the right half, but with good footwork it is easier. Climbing the left edge/arete is non-trivial and considerably harder.
Bypass (5.5?*) - Start at the lowest point on the right, just left of a tree that has grown 'into' the rock partway up. Pass the leaning horizontal cracks to the mottled face above.
If you're looking for a little adventure in an out-of-the-way area, this section of Sugarloaf Mountain is for you. Climb the stairs past Boy Scout Ledges to the summit area and work your way over to the West View overlook area. Keeping leftish as you approach the rocks (but right of the right 'ridge' leading from Boy Scout Ledges), work your way out to the furthest point of rocks that will suddenly drop precipitously beneath you to a talus field far below. The top of the rocks are covered with white stuff (warning: this is not chalk). Someone engraved into the rocks near the top here the word(s) "HE LAI" in 4" tall red letters to the right of a pine tree. You can get down to the base of the rocks via 3rd class scrambling to the left (south side) or via a 2nd class scramble 'trail' to the right (north) which starts out down a gully-ramp. The south down scramble directly accesses the Upper West View Rocks, whereas the north trail takes you down more than 100' to a flat area at the base of the Lower West View Slab.
UPPER WEST VIEW ROCKS
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°15.758'
Long: W077°23.676'
An alternate way to the to this spot is to come up the Green path, but as soon as the talus slope on the left of the path starts to steepen (a short ways before the right turnoff towards Middle Earth), bank left, trying to get to the talus/rock interface (which is a steep friction slab, to the left of the 3rd-class ascent/descent line to/from the summit area described above).
There are only a half dozen lines in this area, and half of them can be variants of each other. Most of these are basically stacked boulder problems (a lower and an upper). Most lines start off the friction slab that runs up to a short (10') but severely steep wall split vertically by a crack through a black streak in the rock.
LOWER WEST VIEW SLAB
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°15.766'
Long: W077°23.691'
This is a tall slabby area about 70' down and 30' left (as if looking uphill) from the UPPER WEST VIEW ROCKS. There are only a few routes down here, but worth coming to climb at least once. To set up top-ropes, work your way up the gully/path on the left side of the rocks here, and after 20-25' find the 4th class 'gully' which goes up and right past a short but steep washboard ribbed wall. Once there find some blocks to wrap long (20') slings or cracks to put pro in. There are some trees around in the jumble of rock here, but they are rather small. I would not recommend using them (though I have encountered people who use less; scary).
GPS coords: (The Great Wall)
Lat:
Long:
What's cookin in the Devils Kitchen? Quite a bit, it seems! This area is the first climbing spot you encounter on your way up Sugarloaf Mountain, a few hundred feet west of the East View parking and overlook area. Parallel park on the side of the road and head into the woods a couple hundred feet to find a broken line of rock, cut by gullies and breakdown boulders. From end to end the outcropping of rock here is nearly 600 long. Between the gully cuts are sections that offer routes for climbing, upwards of 50. As you will approach the rocks more or less from almost the center of the cliff line, near THE GREAT WALL.
THE DEVIL INSIDE ROCK. Find the rock outcropping with the crooked Y-forked tree on a ledge 2/3 of the way up. This is the eastern-most outcropping of rock. After this is just jumbles of rock in the woods, and the hiking trail.
LORD OF THE PIT ROCK. 50 left of THE DEVIL INSIDE ROCK is this outcropping, sporting a short overhanging wall split by a thin right-rising crack on one end, and a major square roof on the other.
DEVILS BREW ROCK. Next wall just left of LORD OF THE ROCK.
LOST SOULS ROCK 4. 90 left of LORD OF THE ROCK. X feet left of Devils Brew Rock.
PIT FIEND ROCK. 25 left of LOST SOULS ROCK.
Demonic Tutor (5.10a*) - Hope you learn something from this! Climb the center of the overhanging wall by following the larger right-rising hand crack with several bucket holds. Halfway up the crack aim for the finger ledge up left. Finish by pulling on round holds onto the ledge above. The rest of the rock above is 4th class. This is route #18 in this section of the guidebook.
Deviled Eggs (5.6?) - Straddle-climb the jagged arete between Demonic Tutor and Pride Comes Before A Fall. Finish on Pride....
Pride Comes Before A Fall (5.5*) - A somewhat dirty route with great holds. Climb the overhanging wall with buckets left around the corner from Demonic Tutor. Finish on the ledge above. This is route #19 in this section of the guidebook.
THE GREAT WALL. The center of this massive overhanging wall is 50 left of PIT FIEND ROCK.
MOTTLED WALL. 100 left of PIT FIEND ROCK. Pacemaker, Slow And Easy, and Slippery Doo Dah! are on the mottled west-facing side of the rock 25 Feet Left of The Great Wall. The next low-angled outcropping of rock immediately left of The Mottled Wall sports some short thin slabby facing climbing problems. Often for these, though, the crux is getting off the ground.
THE BLADE. 75 left of MOTTLED WALL.
DESIRE ROCK. 65' left of THE BLADE.
TOAD ROCK. 50 left of DESIRE ROCK.
TIME ROCK. 80 left of TOAD ROCK.
DECEIVER ROCK. 45' left of TIME ROCK.
THE LITTLE DEVILS TOWER. This free-standing pillar is 20' left of DECEIVER ROCK, and offers routes on all sides of it. Anchors are slightly tricky, as there are no trees up top or cracks to set pro in.
GPS coords:
Lat:
Long:
One of the large peaks north of Sugarloaf Mtn, but some 300-400 feet lower, White Rocks is a spur from Sugarloaf Mtn proper. It is located roughly 2-3 miles away from Sugarloaf Mtn. You can get there by trail or by road (mostly; still have a 20 minute walk ahead of you after parking).
You will approach the rocks from behind. To the left are some boulder problems that you can explore, ranging from fairly easy to fairly hard. Most problems are very short, one or two move total.
![[The author on The Sherpa
Connection - photo by E Horst]](sherpa-connection-indy.jpg)
Author debating
whether to continue on The Sherpa Connection or finish up on Force
Ten Direct Finish (photo - E. Horst)
Bearing right when you come to the ridge line, follow the trail to the overlook. These are the White Rocks, and are between 30-40' tall. There are a number of routes here ranging from relatively easy (5.2) to fairly difficult (5.12). Long runners will suffice for anchoring off of hefty trees. Dogs of War and Hubble ascend the main mottled face just left of two large blocky boulders; Force Ten and The Sherpa Connection work the face with the right-leaning crack to the left.
There are a number of boulder problems strewn throughout the area here. The above listed routes comprise the main climbing potential of White Rocks. Note that the ratings of routes in the 5.11 range may be off by as much as a grade (especially if you are taller or shorter than 'average'). Future editions will attempt to get these nailed down.
Also be aware of glass at the bottom of the cliffs from bottles tossed over the top by non-climber-types. An effort is being made to clean the area up, but it is an ever ongoing process. Your help is appreciated. Also be aware that tourists coming to check out the view of the valley may toss/throw rocks over without ever realizing that there are climbers down below (just because you may have highly visible anchor rigs doesn't always mean anything; one afternoon the author and some friends had four top-ropes rigged, and someone chucked a hefty rock into the woods just behind where they were all climbing--fortunately no one was hurt...).
Be sure not to miss Black Crack and Faint's Roof while visiting here.
Outcropping at the far north end of the Annapolis Rocks group. Medium to large pro for anchors.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°33.541'
Long: W077°35.927
Approximately 50' south of Argo Rock lies the next outcropping of rock. This outcropping, when seen from the overlook above Ounce Of Perception (when there are no leaves covering it) has, with a little imagination, the visage of ex-President Richard Nixon. The main climbing starts on the platform/ledge ~20' below the square ledge/roof halfway up the cliff.
There has been some confusion, depending on who one talks to, as to exactly what route in this area is Nixon's Nose. Some have said it is Ounce Of Perception, others have indicated it's the aid route to the right of Faint's Roof, and others have thought that it was the rock outcropping ~130 feet north/left of Faint's Roof. Using information from some of the original climbers to the area (Rob Savoye, et al), Nixon's Nose is the aid route to the right of Faint's Roof, making the pillar of rocks to the north/left Nixon's Other Nose.
Anchors here are long runners and medium pro.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°33.501'
Long: W077°35.924'
Easily the most popular area at Annapolis Rocks (barring Black Crack, which is probably the most popular climb at Annapolis Rocks), it is relatively easy to find by angling left at the end of the quarter mile trail off of the Appalachian Trail until you come to an obvious break in the trees/bushes that opens onto a broad area of flat rock - the main overlook area at Annapolis Rocks. To the north from the overlook about 130' you can see the rock outcropping, Nixon's Other Nose.
To get to the bottom, continue heading left (south) along the back edge of the rocks until you come to a chimney-like notch in the rocks. Take this 3rd class downscramble to the base and head right around the corner. In 30' or so you will see ~30' away a large roof to the left of a tall, bumpy face. This would be Faint's Roof.
Along the wall to the right as you go through the descent to get to the Faint's Roof area are a couple of easy lines. If you choose to climb them, please try to not block the path for those others who are ascending/descending this section of the cliff, okay?
Rambling Man (5.3) - 30'. This route is located around the corner, up, and to the right of In Your Face. Start by a small-moderate sized oak tree where a rectangular "hollow" or alcove is in the rock around head height. Climb up to and through the alcove to a ledge halfway up the wall. Continue up the relatively steeper terrain to the highest point above. There are a handful of little variations you can do that can push the difficulty upwards of 5.5 without getting too contrived.
The Stair Steps (5.0) - 28'. To the right of unnamed is a broken face with a large fracture crack. Climb up the blocky face following the crack to the top. It gets a little awkward near the end when you have to deal with the large block boulder just shy of the top. A fairly ideal climb for novices, though the base here is not good for holding large groups of people.
Training Wheels (5.0) - 24'. This route is located to the right of the descent route, next to a large boulder below a roof at waist level. Start just left of the roof (crux) and climb up the featured face (4th) to the top. Nothing more to say about this one. Really not worth dropping a rope on unless there is absolutely nothing else around and you're in this section.
Foliage Sex (5.7) - 35'. This route is located around the corner and down from unnamed, and starts below a cherry tree growing horizontally out from beneath the left side of a large roof. Be sure your ropes drop to the left of the cherry tree or you might more intimately understand the route name. Climb up just left of the cherry tree, pulling through the jagged overhanging blocks until you can get your feet on solid ground again. Continue on up the arete to the top. Be sure to pad your anchors as the edge here is fairly sharp and will wear away at whatever you set.
GPS coords: (above Amazon From Ozegna)
Lat: N 39°33.463'
Long: W077°35.923'
This lone fin of rock is located approximately 180 feet south of Faint's Roof, ~40' southeast of The Little Climb.... Easiest way to set up the routes is to 4th class it up Access Arete and place the anchors. Want long slings/runners/webbing, some pro (mid-range and/or larger) will help. Watch out for glass in the area; last couple of years there were found been broken shards of glass up top near where one of the anchors would nominally rest. Bring some bags to help clean this area up if you would. Anchors here are comprised of medium to long webbing and medium to large pro.
Access Arete is located at the north corner of the rock fin, by a tall tree. Lately someone has piled up a stack of rocks to assist with the first moves off the ground (or back down for the downclimb).
GPS coords: (above Black Crack)
Lat: N 39°33.444'
Long: W077°35.923'
Approximately 90' south of Blondes Just Wanna Have Fin is a short wall that rises up out of the trees, containing a chimney-like cavity. This starts the South End routes. The climb Black Crack is located on the tallest portion of this wall at the far right end of the rock.
Located about halfway between Blondes Just Wanna Have Fin and Black Crack is an oft-overlooked wall. This is mainly because it is shrouded by trees, and has low-angle clumpy 4th-class scramble routes, and is not what you would come all the way out here specifically to climb, but there are a few routes here that are worthy of dropping a rope on if nothing else is available that you want to do.
Sevenfold (5.7+) - This route is located at the outermost bulge of the rock wall, ~35' left of the route Black Hole Sun. Climb up the short blank wall to a ledge with a small tree. Then with deft footwork, crank through the center of the round, bulgy roof above to a walk-off ledge (pine tree to left). If you stay to the left of the bulging overhang the route is much easier. The climb basically ends at this walk-off ledge, for if you set your anchors higher up to play on the upper projecting overhangs (5.3 or so; juggy fun, not hard), rope drag will be a serious factor. Yes, you get a taller climb out of it, but do you really want to stress your rope out so much? In any event, like so many other routes in Maryland, if this [lower section] were taller it would be a great route.
unnamed (5.?) - Approximately 10' right of Sevenfold is a set of jutting blocks. Climb up through these to a ledge. You can stop here or continue the fun on easier ground by climbing higher. Again, though, higher anchors means rope drag problems. :-/
A couple new routes on the South End. On June 11, 2006, in accordance to the inquiry in the guide, Bob Curry pulled the large roof between Black Hole Sun and High Hopes!
George of the Jungle (5.12b) - Use the same start as Black Hole Sun/High Hopes, but instead of skirting the imposing roof to the left or right, be a Man and tackle it straight on! Tease some tree foliage along the way, but don't come off or it'll be "Watch out for that tree!" This is Annapolis Rocks' first 5.12 climb (go Bobby!!).
The next route is located around the corner to the left of Black Crack, also done by Bob Curry a few years ago:
Ulterior (5.11b) - So-named due to the fact that this is an overlooked route, it came after the guide was actually published, has some hidden holds, and is next to Cynosure (hence some name play :-). This route ascends the rock between Cynosure and Illusion, as reported by Bobby Curry and Shawn McIntosh. Start between the two climbs and scramble up to an overhang ~10' off the ground. Pull through the 'hang (V2+/V3- boulder problem; hellhook right helpful), use a good handhold on Cynosure for a moment, then off to crimps on the right, keeping between Cynosure and Illusion until under the small roof/overhang. Finish by pulling this between Cynosure and Cynosure Direct, using a sharp triangle under/side-cling for the right (this hold will quickly tear one's skin off of the base of the middle finger, so taping is advisable). All the large footholds near the finish are "on", and you'll be glad they are. Due to the pump factor and nature of the moves, this is one of the harder lines at Annapolis Rocks.
Annapolis Rocks getting too crowded for you? Lately in the past few years it's seen a lot more traffic than before. More and more people are braving the 2.25 mile hike to enjoy the fine quality rock that are there. When this happens and your favorite routes are taken (or, heck, all the routes are taken!), a viable option might be to continue on to Black Rocks. A 'mere 1 mile further down the trail', there are a number of small outcroppings hidden in the woods. Most are actually pretty small - boulder problems mainly. But there are routes which lend themselves to setting up a rope (which, in this day and age, some people still call 'boulder problems'). You might need to clean the spiderwebs from some of the areas, though; this place doesn't see much traffic (other than the drag strip in the distance, and the drone from I-70, this place gives you a good wilderness experience - have fun with the lichen! :).
There are actually two areas to Black Rocks. The first reached (if approaching from the south) is the aforedescribed outcroppings in the woods, or the 'Woods Crags'. If you want to get to the Main Rocks, the ones which you can see while eastbound I-70 coming from Hagarstown, you need to continue north on the AT for another 5-10 minutes (you will pass a sign indicating 'Pogo Campground 1.6 miles'; it's ~5-10 minutes after this to the Main Rocks). You will come to small signs to the left on some trees that say 'Black Rock View 25 yards'. Follow the side trail west and...in 25 yards you're atop of the rocks! (you may have to bushwack a little through the undergrowth) Below you is the start of a serious scree slope, which extends a considerable distance towards the north (right). There are a number of cliff sections in this area. Much of the rock is lichen covered (for the obvious reason that no one goes there much), and there is loose rock in this area (again, no one climbs here much, so the looser stuff hasn't been broken off - so be careful, dammit!).
You have three options for getting to the rocks here. One is to park off of Rt 40 and hike north on the AT for 3 miles until you come to the outcroppings. The second option is to go to the end of Black Rocks Road on the east side of the ridge, park (extremely limited parking here!!), then follow the faint path between two houses directly across the T-intersection from the terminus of Black Rocks Road. In short order you will come to the remnants of Black Rock Road that goes off into the woods and quickly rises up the hill (switchbacks? we don't need no steenking switchbacks!). You'll come to a Y-split. Either choice will get you to the AT, but the left fork will put you that much closer to Black Rocks. Once on the AT, head south. When you pass the Pogo Campground you're actually only half mile away!
Option 3 is to hike directly up the old road from the west. The problem here is extremely limited parking.
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Dr ASCII School Of Heelhook (5.6 - 5.8*) - A 'high-ball' boulder problem. About a mile past the Annapolis Rocks turnoff trail there is a sign for 'Black Rocks'. Shortly past that is a sign 'Pogo Camp 1.6 miles' (or something like that). Take an immediate left and follow the faint trail to the first rock outcropping you come to. This is it. Set a rope up to cover the general face with overhangs and roofs. It's a short cliff, though - only 20 feet high. Once you get into the route, it's pretty much over. Sadly. A variety of ways up this can be done. The lower right arete gives you an opportunity to practice a dyno move to the top (can be done static if you're tall). The roofs, with their great handholds, lend themselves to beautiful heelhook moves. The easiest way up this rock would be to weave your way between the 'hangs. Or walk around back. ;-)
Brian's Wedgie (5.7*) - just downhill from the preceding rock is another small cliffband. Most of this can be 3rd and 4th classed, but there is one southfacing wall with a couple of 'hangs that is worthy of climbing. Kinda pumpy, too, and about the tallest thing in this area. There are also a variety of ways to go up this one, too. The cruxes can be avoided by scooting out around the arete on the left and 4th-classing it.
There is more to be done here, but not a lot. There are outcroppings scattered in the woods here and there open yet to exploration.
THE MAIN BLACK ROCK CLIFF AREA:
![[Image of Rock 1 w/climbers]](rock1-1.jpg)
Climber fighting through foliage on Snap, Crackle And Pop Go
Climbing; Learning Curve is sunlit face to the right
LOWER OVERLOOK:
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The lower and leftmost of the main overlooks. Anchors for here use primarily pro/gear in cracks, though you can wrap some of the boulders with long strips of webbing.
JESUS OVERLOOK:
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°34.370'
Long: W077°35.846'
The next major rock outcropping from Rock 1, approximately 100' to the north. This is the southern of 2 overlook rocks you come to when travelling north on the Appalachian Trail. It's directly perpendicular to the trail at the point where a faded sign on a tree says "120 yds" to the Black Rock View. Follow the foot trail back and around a short band of rocks by a mini-meadow-like area, to the rocks outside the woods themselves.
The main face is ~60' tall, starting at a ledge ~20-30' up from the scree field (from up top it looks to be over 100' to the base, giving one pause for thought about top-roping the routes here). From the top scramble around down right to gain access to the belay ledge below. Alternatively go left, down around Rock 1, and then 4th-class it up the 20-30' from the scree field to the decent belay ledge. There are points to anchor in if you so desire.
You can wrap a couple of huge boulders and slot some medium-large sized tri-cams for adequate for anchors.
Mind War (5.5*) - Set your rope to drop ~7-10 feet left of the 'Jesus...' writing grafitti.
By Any Means Necessary (~5.5) - A nice little climb, if a bit awkward at the crux, located ~10' right of Mind War. Anchors here can be wrapping the huge boulder up top, plus pro placements of medium-sized nuts, small tri-cams, med-small camming units. Best to have your rope drop in the corner to the left of Mind War.
NORTH OVERLOOK:
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No details available right now. Might not even be worth anything, depending on what future exploration finds. Off-hand it looks 4th class all the way (except for the overhanging section at the very top). This is the northern of the two 'scenic overlook' rock outcroppings at Black Rocks. You can identify it by finding one of the furthest out slab/boulders with writing in red paint reading: "All mighty God is Jesus Christ" (and so on and so forth; I guess vandals permeate even the Christian religion).
From here you can see to the north, low, through the tops of some trees, the upper blocks of The Tower of Babylon rock, about 150-200' away. There is no real good path over there; you're bushwacking it. There is a faint path which follows along near the top of the rocky outcroppings, but knowing where to drop down (and where the path itself is) is the tricky part.
There is a short wall halfway between Rock 3 and Tower of Babylon on the 'ridge' which has a number of boulder problems on it.
THE TOWER OF BABYLON:
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A shorter, somewhat detached outcropping with a pillar of slabs stacked atop of it like a squarish, steep smokestack, a few hundred feet north of Rock 1. This rock is characterized by slightly overhanging faces seasoned with a few roofs. The large left-facing open book on the west wall has two trees growing out of the bottom, with an obvious offwidth crack above. The northern end of this rock is lichen-encrusted, however, but most of the other faces are mostly lichen-free.
![[Image of 'The Tower of Babylon' rock]](babylon-tower.jpg)
No Surrender, No Retreat goes through
the roof and high narrow wall on the right side of the photo,
Epiphanies goes up the obvious inside corner just left of the photo
center; Signs And Portents deals with the roof to the lower left of the
photo
At the west-most pointed end of this outcrop is a wide roof, and above a sea of lichen wall. There may be several routes in here, but pulling the roof is significantly harder than 5.10 (or at least it appears to be; if you discover otherwise...). The next route is at the far left end of this roof/face. You can use trees for anchors here.
Descent Route (3rd) - About 20-25 feet left of Between The Darkness... is a notch in the wall. This is the easiest access area to get from bottom to top (or visa versa) for this area (the other is to do an exposed 2nd/3rd class traverse on the west-facing wall by the boulder-choked chimney on the other side of the Tower of Babylon rock. There are a couple of 3rd class steps that need to be negotiated to get through this, but otherwise no problemmo.
Much of the rock bands in the woods above The Tower of Babylon are short (~10-15 feet high) with some interesting problems. These would basically be boulder problems, and probably too easy for your True Boulderer, but as practice for the general climber, there exist a number of interesting problems. But watch your landings; some of them have jagged, uneven rock below (personally I'm just as happy to rig a rope ;-).
GPS coords: (from atop of Water Bottle Wall)
Lat: N 39°39.847'
Long: W077°32.004'
This set of rocks is located some miles north of Black Rock, along the northern portion of the Appalachian Trail. It is a grouping of broken rock bands, some of them set back a few minutes up the trail from the road, some of them closer to the road but tiered in steps. There are some interesting and easy routes in this area to play on.
In the summer of 2003, shortly after the "Climb Maryland!" guide came out, a few locals (Steve Byrkit, Mike Miles, Brendan O'Connor, and Matt Birmingham) began developing the main bouldering area here. They established 9 boulder problems (plus variations) on the Roadside Bouldering Wall.
From left to right these problems are:
As you travel along northward on the Appalachian Trail out of Gathland State Park, you will come to a ridge rising on your right a couple hundred feet from the trail about 3/4 mile north of the Park. This ridge is populated with periodic boulder fields that eventually give way to short boulder problems, and finally some taller stuff. The rock is all part of the Weverton Formation Quartzite that is predominant up and down South Mountain (i.e., it is the same type of rock as at Annapolis Rocks). The strata layering is horizontal along the ridge here, creating massive roof problems.
Directions: Take I-70 west to Frederick, and get off at the exit for Alt 40 just west of Frederick. Turn left at the light and go 4 miles to Middletown, turning left onto Rte 17. Follow Rte 17 6 miles to Burkittsville. In downtown Burkittsville turn right onto Gapland Road. Follow that for a mile to Gathland State Park. Turn right at the intersection there, then a hundred feet or so later turn left into the parking lot. From the parking lot walk past the burned out ruins of a building to get on the Appalachian Trail. Follow that north for a mile or so.
Tower of Power:
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°25.684'
Long: W077°38.308'
At over 30' tall, this is the largest of the outcrops along the trail here. There are some seriously daunting roof problems to be tackled. This outcrop is 1.5 miles from the parking lot.
Double Exposure - 5.9 (29'). This Gunks-like roof route ascends the 'chimney' between two stacked projections of roofs on the right side of the rock. And for a chimney, with everything overhanging so much, you get a decent amount of exposure. Start behind the large slab block and climb up between the large chimneys. Pay attention as a fall through here will net you some big air time. Climb up to the large, imposing summit roof above, then turn left to get onto a shelf in whatever manner elegant or not you can. Stand up and finish the last move or two through the weakness at the top of the rock.
Lichen Or Not - 5.7+ (34'). This route begins on the left side of the large slab to the right at the base of the cliff, ~8' left of Double Exposure. Climb straight up the slightly overhanging blocks, following the path of least resistance, to the final roof. Then either pull the roof directly at the narrow notch (crux) (be careful your rope doesn't get wedged in the notch), being careful of the lichen above (lest you get it in your eyes as you reach for a hold) or, slightly easier, turn right and come up on large holds and a step. There isn't a lot of room from where the rope can drop down and where the lip of the final roof is.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°26.816'
Long: W077°37.938'
Lamb's Knoll is located 2.8 miles due north of Gathland State Park (as the crow flies), though while the trail is nice, it winds a bit, so plan on a 3 mile hike one way. This is another outcrop of Weverton Formation quartzite along the hill top of South Mountain, near the Appalachian Trail. Unlike the preceeding areas, this one is tucked away in the woods, and offers now good views of anything other than more trees. The rocks are barely visible from the AT during the winter months when there are no leaves to block the view. In the summer months, forget being able to see it at all from the trail.
This band of rock is short and broken, but offers some interesting routes if you can deal with the greenbriar. There is a free-standing pillar here as well, which offers some interesting climbing opportunities.
Directions: Take I-70 west to Frederick, and get off at the exit for Alt 40 just west of Frederick. Turn left at the light and go 4 miles to Middletown, turning left onto Rte 17. Follow Rte 17 6 miles to Burkittsville. In downtown Burkittsville turn right onto Gapland Road. Follow that for a mile to Gathland State Park. Turn right at the intersection there, then a hundred feet or so later turn left into the parking lot.
Pick up the Appalachian Trail North to the side of a ruined building and start marching uphill a bit. Once you finish the uphill part (steep, but nowhere near as steep as the section leading from Rte 40 to Annapolis Rocks!), the trail is more or less flat and pleasant, punctuated by a few rocky areas (how the people in "The Blair Witch Project" supposedly got lost up here I'll never know!). After ~2.5 miles the trail will make a sharp, 90-degree turn to the left (there will be a blue-blazed trail coming in from the right at this point). You are close (if you were feeling masochistic, you could continue straight into the woods and bushwhack to the cliffs from here!). The AT will slowly bend right as you continue onward. In a few minutes you will reach another noticeably rocky area. This is the western terminus of the outcrop. The climbing area is 600' to your right. I would suggest following the rocks and boulders uphill rather than staying low, unless you are impervious to jungles of thorns (or just like pain). Bushwhack from here to the rocks. You will be atop of them. The easiest way to find things would be to go to the far end of the rock band and find the free-standing Pillar. The climbable cliff pretty much ends at this point.
The bottom area between the segments of cliff is choked with greenbrier and loose rock, much of the latter covered with leaves and long-dead downed trees. Feel free to cut back the intruding greenbrier so you can navigate w/out being sliced to pieces (don't worry, it'll grow back! :-/ ). There are a few areas which will allow relatively 'easy' access to the base of the cliffs. The most obvious is to slide/scramble down the far east end of the outcrop. You can also come down between Unknown roof and Face Hugger. There is some 5.0 scramble downclimbing you can do between Anti-Gravity Crack and Kindergarden Blocks. There is another scramble/slide between some of the [currently] unrecorded segments further west. In all cases beware the greenbrier. And in the warmer weather days, beware of ticks as well!
The routes are described from right to left, starting at the far right end at the Pillar. There are nigh two dozen routes in this area.
Deception - 5.9*, PG. This route ascends the tall, south-facing wall of the Pillar by following the wandering thin crack to the top. You may need to use the right arete a couple of times in the latter half of the route. Committing moves don't look so bad from the ground.
The Confessor - 5.8. This route climbs the shorter, east-facing side of the Pillar. Not quite as committing as Deception, but not trivial, either.
Restricted Access - 5.5. This is one of those one-two move wonder routes. It offers the easiest access to the top of the Pillar (unless you want to leap across the gap from the main wall!). Start in the 'chimney' formed by the north side of the Pillar and the main wall, climb up the line of weakness to the top.
The next set of climbs ascend the wall next to the Pillar.
Aqua Crack - 5.8, <20'. Climb the short crack at the far right end of the wall to the sloped-off top shelf. The crux is getting off the ground.
Neubauer-Reinhart Right Crack - 5.7* 20'. Work your way up the gently left-leaning finger crack to the top.
Neubauer-Reinhart Route - 5.8, 22'. Climb the face in the center of the wall between the two crack systems to the top. Try not to use the left or right cracks if possible (you may have to at some point halfway up, though).
Neubauer-Reinhart Left Crack - 5.6, 22'. Climb the prominent double-crack system on the left side of the main wall.
Unnamed - 5.10+. Start below the arete on the far left end from the main corner left of Neubauer-Reinhart Left Crack. Climb the face and arete, following a shallow, left-facing corner (of sorts) partway up the face. Starting from the ground makes this a solid 10+ route; stepping on the block and boulder to get onto the wall drops the rating "down" to a comfortable 5.10b.
Unknown roof - 5.13?. Just around the corner and up the hill to the left of the Pillar is a block of rock criss-crossed by cracks, capped with a jutting block roof. A smaller, similar-looking block to The Prow at Sugarloaf. Climb up the center vertical crack to the roof, then pull around/through it to the top.
Face Hugger - 5.10a, 22'. Shades of the 'face hugger' from the "Alien(s)" movie series. Start at the large, flared crack in the center of the outcrop and pull onto a ledge at head-height. From there climb up the rounded wall to the right of the crack, hugging the face where you can find purchase, laying back left on rounded holds to the right when you cannot. Eventually gain some flat holds and finish the final moves happier than you were down low.
The Kneepad (a.k.a. The Kneeler) - 5.6, 22'. The start might be the crux, particularly if you try to not use your knee! Climb onto said ledge about chest or head high (depending on how tall you are) to the left of the wide, flaring crack. Follow the crack as you can, and climb up the rounded arete as the holds direct you to the top. If you stay off the arete and climb the face proper, it is more 5.8 in nature.
Anti-Gravity Crack (a.k.a., Plumber's Crack) - 5.8, 15'. Short but funky. Gravity doesn't seem to work normally here as it does elsewhere in the world, as you want to fall left, not down, while going up. Follow the nice-looking finger crack (it isn't) to rough slopers (good friction, though you may have a raw palm or two after the fact) at the top. Stemming off to the left is illegal (and would drop the rating down to probably 5.5 or 5.6). If this were a longer route, this could be a classic wierd line. An alternate start to give you a few more feet of climbing begins below and right of the wannabe finger crack. You gain said wannabe finger crack after your feet leave the ground.
Kindergarden Blocks - 5.2/5.3, 27'. To the left of The Kneepad about 30-40' is a wall broken with cracks and blocks. Climb the right half of this wall pretty much anywhere on jugs everywhere.
Bear Hug - 5.7, 31'. Start at the lowest section of the wall just to the left of Kindergarden Blocks and follow the hand crack up and right to a cleft in the middle of the wall. Reach up right to a downward pinch and climb up through the slightly bulging section to the top.
Stretch - 5.9, 31'. Start at the same spot as Bear Hug, but instead of following the crack right, go straight up the wall, using the arete as needed. A reach problem; this will be more difficult for shorter people. Note also that not all the horizontals are going to be as nice as you'd like them to be, but there generally are finger ledges nearby. The crux is at the top.
Angela's Face - 5.10b, 31'. Start to the left and around the corner from Stretch, at a left-leaning crack. Climb the crack to a ledge about 7' up. From there climb the smooth, nearly featureless face to the triangular roof overhead without using the arete until you can reach the roof. The crux is the few moves immediately below the roof to pulling through the roof. Finish on increasinly better holds to the top. If you use the arete prior to gaining the roof, the climbing drops down to about 5.9 or 5.8. This is a reach problem route; the crux is notably easier if you are 6'+.
Gert's Route - 5.4, 32'. Start as with Angela's Face, but climb the blocky face to the left, following a crack to the top.
Phil's Chimney - 5.5, 30'. Climb up the deep chimney using blocks in the back until you are forced to actually go into "chimneying mode". Follow the thin crack on the left wall up through the narrow portion of the chimney to the top. You might find facing left easier at the top than facing right.
Pressure Under Grace - 5.8+*, 35'. One of the tallest routes here. Climb the wall just outside the deep chimney, following the featured right-facing corner and crack system without actually going into the chimney. Gain some ledges and make some delicate moves in order to finish on easier rock. Not many places to put a cam (or anything else) on this route if you want to lead it.
Addietude Direct - 5.9? Climb the face to the left of Pressure Under Grace straight up to and through some "bear-claw" grooves near the top.
Addietude Arete - 5.8? Start at the base of the blunt arete and work your way to the top, climbing the arete and face on either side as you find (or don't find) holds.
Exoplanet - 5.10a/b*, 31'. Start at the of a deep cleft in the base of the buttress in the center of the face a couple feet left of Addietude Arete. Climb up to (crux) and through the short overhang and lieback the vertical flared crack to gain a stance. Breathe, then continue up the wall to the top on small holds. You'll need to be perceptive in order to not make this bit any harder than 5.8 or 5.9.
40' left of Exoplanet is the last tall-ish outcrop of rock. Everything past this point to the AT is either a boulder problem &#lt;10' high, or just a small protrusion of geologic interest. There is a large, broken, twisted tree at the top of this outcrop; the upper half of this tree has fallen over and is covering up a couple of the routes here. The tree will need to be removed (by someone with more stubbornness than I!) before these routes will be available. In the meantime...
Unknown Crack (5.?) - Climb the left-leaning, flared, wide, vegetated crack as far as you can to reach the top.
Unknown Face (5.?) - Climb the lichen-encrusted wall that currently lies beneath the dead, inverted tree.
Pokey - 5.2, 25'. Climb the buttress around the corner left of Unknown Face on exceptionally large holds.
Tiger - 5.3, 27'. In the deep corner left of Pokey, climb the left face as holds present themselves. There are some incredibly nice, friendly side-pulls here to play on halfway up.
Panther - 5.6*, 28'. Starting just uphill left from the lowest point of rock, left of Tiger, climb over bulging rounded rock until you can gain the flat, almost lichen-free, apparently featureless face. Finding good holds, ascend to the small roof. Pull through the roof using holds left and high right (crux), then reach high to finish. One of the better routes of its grade here.
Unknown Chimney (5.?) - Climb the chimney around the corner left of Panther.
Unknown (5.?) - Climb the rounded blocky wall left of the chimney.
There are a few more (but shorter) routes further to the left from these. They are unrecorded at this time.
GPS coords (from Wolf Rock):
Lat: N 39° 38.041'
Long: W077° 26.259'
Catoctin Mtn/Cunningham Falls is located off of Rt 15, north of Frederick ~10 miles or so (probably less). Climbing in Catoctin Mtn is draconianly restricted. The park rangers wish for you to check in prior to going up (and check out again when you come down), and you must have a helmet for every member in your party. You may only climb during the time the Visitor Center is open (the hours are rather restrictive in the summer months). The Park operates on a permit system, and will only issue climbing permits for up to 25 people per day. You can arrange to have reservations up to 5 days in advance if you want. The Park Service will dictate to you if the weather/conditions are okay for climbing (some people attempted to go up and practice crevasse rescue techniques early in Jan '01 but were turned away as the rangers indicated the conditions were not conducive to having people up there; this despite the fact that the people who went to practice the rescue techniques were probably better prepared than the Park staff is). Topping all this off, the only area in the Park that the Park Service allows climbing at is at Wolf Rock.
This long band of rock is primarily composed of easy to moderate level climbing (where 'easy' is 5.4 or less, 'moderate' tops out around 5.9, though the hardest moderate route is probably no more than 5.7), though at the far right end there is a short wall which has some seriously blank faces to short roofs for you to step past, and are much harder than 5.9. There are some other routes tucked away in the crevices on top of this band of rock. The rangers indicate that not many people climb here (wonder why!) and that it is mostly used by rappellers.
There are other areas in these parks which have climbing potential, but as was indirectly noted above, climbing is not permitted in these locals. The adventurous climber will find some hard stuff at Chimney Rock. Cat's Rock has just some short boulder problems and 3rd/4th class scrambling (more than exciting enough for the non-climbers who visit). There are other outcroppings hidden away in the woods here that no one talks about (for fear of drawing crowds and thus unwanted attention from the local authorities).
Climbing at Cunningham Falls is also off-limits, like most of Catoctin Mtn noted above. So all the little outcroppings there that you could play on are left quietly for you to find [quietly!] on your own.
Be warned, however: some of the local climbers may be hostile to 'outsider' climbers (so much for a climbing 'community'). A couple told me quite bluntly they would prefer that the 'city folk' stay at the main climbing areas, and not come out to these local crags. This is especially true for the Frederick Watershed rocks.
There is a outcropping of rock behind the gun club that you pass just before entering the Watershed itself, but it is closed. Why? Too many people who didn't ask permission to climb there, didn't notify the landowner when they would be there, and got freaked out when there was a scheduled gun shoot down below them (they went off to call the police, saying that people were shooting at them; it made for a bad situation between the landowner and the climbers who were considerate, so to prevent future incidents, the rocks are now closed - maybe one day they will be open again? time will tell...)
Note: parking is extremely limited in the Watershed! Visit in small groups or carpool in a single vehicle.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 32.471'
Long: W 077° 27.920'
After following the gravel road for nearly 1 mile even, the road will curve to the left and there will be a small (1-2 vehicle) pull-off on the right, next to the small brook. Park here. Rock-hop (step) across the brook to follow a path back downhill to the right. You will see rocks ~100' away from the parking spot.
The rocks here are smooth, almost frictionless, quartzy-type stuff. Holds are few and either sharp and incut, or smooth and slopey. The rocks reach upwards of 30' in places. It is an outcropping of seperate sections of rock. Some nice corner/finger crack climbs, some blank-looking faces. Nothing much in the roof department except across the road where there is a small line of 10' high or less rock which has a 15' high section in the middle housing a roof 8' off the ground. There may be 3 lines on this section across the road, but the rest is bouldering problems.
This area has some of the hardest climbing in the Watershed.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 31.991'
Long: W 077° 28.484'
Travel down the road just about 0.75 mile and park in one of the few small pull-offs here. The closest pull-off to the rocks here is on the left almost exactly 0.75 miles from the fork in the road, in the middle of an S-curve. The rocks are barely 50' away from the road, and are readily visible from the road. This place is a myriad jumble of house-sized rock with washboard featured cracks. There are easy routes, moderate routes, and hard routes, 'slab'-like rocks to overhanging faces and roof problems. The holds are pretty positive overall. A very different type rock than that found at RIGHT FORK ROCK. Much more frictionable. Potential here for doing pretty easily protected (but short) leads. The rocks reach a height of about 35' in some places. The horizontal cracks that permeate the rock here may give Gunk junkies a momentary respite from not travelling all the way up to the Gunks itself.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°30.208'
Long W 077°28.434'
This is about a 600' long broken rib of rock resting in the middle of the woods maybe a 10 minute walk from White Rocks. No matter which way you come to this outcrop, you will be bushwacking for a bit. Be prepared.
Word of Caution: in the temperate times of the year (late spring through early fall) you might want to avoid this area, OR wear lots of bug repellant. There is a large deer population in this area, and, well, two words: deer ticks.
The South End
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°30.175'
Long W 077°28.433'
There are only a few routes on this wall here.
The Amphitheater
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°30.208'
Long W 077°28.434'
This probably has the highest concentration of routes per square foot. There are no less than 10-12 routes that can be done here. Most are in the 5.8-5.10a range.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°30.485'
Long W 077°28.157'
This is a kinda hidden outcrop of rock, facing to the east, away from the fireroad. As you walk along the backside (west side), you will see a jumble of boulders. It is the East Side that offers the climbing!
This tall (~40-50'), severely overhanging rock outcrop is located along the shores of Lake Linganore, in the private community of Linganore. Alas, since this is a private community, it means access to these rocks is off-limits. You can only go there as a guest of one of the few climbers who live in the community. That said, if you do get an opportunity to check this place out, be prepared for sharp holds on extremely overhanging (~45 degree) rock! There are possibly a dozen lines here, probably no more, depending on how contrived you want to be. If you are fortunate enough to run into an Old Timer climber dude named Bill, he would be your best source as a guide to the area. Currently known routes include Trail of Tears (~5.9/5.10; goes up the inside of the cave), Sundance (~5.10+; rides the line to the right of ToT), Wounded Knee (so-named from one of the first climbers who sliced his knee during a fall on this, but didn't realize it until he was down and preparing to belay the next climber; runs up a bit around the corner, and is a bit shorter than the first two), and Pale Face (further right from Wounded Knee).
The pump-factor is high on these routes. There are no rests. Be prepared!
The Gunpowder Falls River winds its way from the Prettyboy Dam region down to the Bay. Along the banks of this lengthy river are scattered a handful of crags, of which Route One Rock is part of. However, that remains in a seperate section below.
Located just upstream maybe 0.15 miles from The Fin, this mini-amphitheater of rock is tucked away out of sight behind a jumble of apartment and livingroom-sized boulders. You cannot see it from the road.
Route 1: (5.Unknown) - Climb the short wall at the rightmost end of the wall to a ledge (12'). Then follow the arete up and left to the highest point on this wall (also the top of Route 3).
Route 2: (5.10?) - 19'. Climb the thin face in the center of the right wall to a horizontal crack and finish a body length or two (depending on your height) at the angled arete at the top. For a few extra feet of climbing, follow the arete up and left a few feet to the top of Route 3.
Route 3: (5.hard) - 25'. Start below and right of a short fin-blade, left of the right wall, beneath a small roof capping the top of the rock. Climb up through the rounded groove corner and pull past the small roof at the end.
Chunky Monkey (5.7/5.8?) - 24'. Climb up to and through the broad shallow chimney with vertical cracks and flakes in the center of the rock wall to the top. Somewhat harder than it initially appears.
Route 5: (5.Unknown) - 25'. Starting 5' left of "Chunky Monkey", gain the sloping ledge about 4-5' off the ground. Climb up to the left of the vertical fin, right of the roof, catching a small horizontal crack just right of the roof. Blast past this another 5' to the top.
Route 6: (5.Unknown) - 23'. Start in the corner to the left of Route 5, directly below the roof. Climb up onto the ledge, then up the corner and face, skirting the roof on the left wall. Finish the last few moves by either chimneying the crack or working up the face.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°37.072'
Long: W076°41.403'
The Fin is located approximately a mile downstream from the Prettyboy Dam itself. From the parking area you need to walk down the road to a trail or bushwhack in from behind. Anchor set-ups are not always straight-forward. You may have to be creative. Some of the routes, though, are straight-forward, and thus are climbed the most (also, having one of the more friendly belay areas helps ;-) .
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°36.802'
Long: W076°40.556'
Bunker Hill rock is nestled right on the banks of the Gunpowder Falls river. It is very scenic...but the rock quality is lacking, unfortunately. However, if you can get past that aspect of the area, you can have a nice time here. AND it's close to the cars (though not close enough to belay from the steering wheel; sorry).
From the parking area cross the road and follow the river upstream for all of maybe 4 minutes. The path is flat and easy. You will come to the rocks on your right. If you miss them, you are looking for the wrong thing - they're only 30-40' tall at best.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 37.104'
Long: W 076° 39.169'
This expansive band of rock is located nearly a mile downstream from where York Road passes over the Gunpowder Falls River. It is set back a hundred or so feet from the river itself, so not readily apparent unless you are looking uphill to the left through the trees. You'll see a tall wall (~40') that looks quite appealing, but climbing on it is....well, let's just say the rock is rotten. You'll do better climbing the shorter sections that flank the main wall; they are more stable.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 37.047'
Long: W 076° 38.907'
Located about 700-800' downstream from Raven Rocks, this is a small outcrop that boasts rather stiff, short problems. Almost boulder-problem like in nature. The rock is made up of the same type of rock as Raven Rocks above, and is prone to breaking, so take care when climbing here.
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This crag is located ~700-800' upstream and across the river from Raven Rocks. It is often overlooked as a potential climbing area due to its apparently slabby and tiered nature, but you can find some problems on some of these exposed faces. Most are probably what one would call "boulder problems", but due to the landing area, a rope might be desireable.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°38.133'
Long: W076°24.753'
Rocks State Park (also called Rocks of Deer Creek, although this name has fallen out of usage) about located 50 minutes north-northeast of Baltimore. Rich in history, the park used to belong to the Susquehannock Indians, who held ritual ceremonies up around the King & Queen's Seat area. Now it is a place for many types of recreation - including rock climbing.
There is a fair bit of climbing to be done here at the main cliff (bring at least a 50m rope for Breakaway Wall!) as well as some more secluded shorter outcroppings tucked away in the woods. The rangers are pro-climber; they feel that climbers are as legitimate a user-group as anyone else, and if you work with them, they will work with you. Bearing this in mind, there are three hard and fast rules that the rangers will enforce on you (and other park users):
The rangers take a dim view of people throwing anything off the cliffs here. This is a criminal offense, and the rangers will charge offenders (if caught) with reckless endangerment and assault. So, if you catch any bastards throwing things off, feel free to notify the authorities!
The park is a Trash Free park! If you pack it in, pack it out. Bring a bag to put your trash in if you need to. And be helpful: pick up any extra trash you find laying around. Other climbers and the rangers will definitely appreciate it.
There is a weekend admission fee of $2/person if you park up top at Rock Ridge. This is in effect from late spring until late autumn. During the week, however, park usage is free.
There are copperheads in the park. They like the rock, especially to warm themselves on during chillier days. The author has not yet (in 11+ years of climbing there) encountered one (now next week I'm sure I will!), just some evidence of their passing. Just be warned. Forewarned is forearmed, and you don't want your forearms on the receiving end of a couple of poisonous fangs - do you?
There is a micro-moss which grows on the rocks (what kind, I don't know; that's not my balliwick). This moss, after it rains or mists, suddenly comes 'alive' and causes the rocks to be slicker than oil. I know of at least one person who face-planted while walking along the base of the cliffs here, but the moss is not restricted to just the bottom. Be aware and extra careful when the conditions are wet.
The rock here is of high-quality. There are a number of great and moderately nice climbs here. The number of low-quality routes is lower on average than elsewhere (your mileage may vary, of course). A 'real' guidebook was said to be in the works back in 1994, but nothing ever came of it that I've been able to track down, thus the expansion of my online guide for Rocks State Park. There is a lot of history here, and almost every square inch of the rock has been touched at one time or another. There are even some 2-pitch routes (the rock here is over 100' in places). A few of the top-rope routes can be led here, and I tried to give some semblence of a protection grade to those routes (eg, G = Good pro, PG = Pretty Good, R = Runout/Danger Will Robinson!, and X = solo time)
PLEASE CLIMB SAFE!! This should go without saying no matter WHERE you climb, but bears repeating. People die at Rocks State Park almost every year. Until recently (1998 and 1999) these have not been climber deaths (just stupid people doing stupid things). But the sudden demise of two climbers (who were soloing) in recent years here has woken some people up to how dangerous this recreation really is. KNOW YOUR LIMITS and TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS! Self-rescue if possible. The rangers will assist in true emergencies, but they are not baby-sitters. If you solo, know that if you fall you are going to get seriously injured or killed. This could potentially jeopardize the future of climbing in the park. No one likes to do body recoveries (been there, done that). I'm not telling you not to do it. I AM saying be extremely aware of the consequences your actions may have on the area.
Local Historical Note: When you are first walking out to the overlook from the King & Queen's Seat, note the faded tombstone on the last large boulder you have to step over (note also a lot of the other grafitti etched in the boulders around here from that era, too). The tombstone etch is dated 1837, and the initials are "A.H.". Back in the 1800s off in the woods a hundred or so yards away (in the old quarry) there used to be a mining/quarry operation going on. There were the "acceptable risks" accidents and injuries and death, but in one incident there was a collapse in the quarry, and one worker was buried. His body was never recovered, so the other quarrymen carved a tombstone in his memory on the boulder by the King & Queen's Seat. It is faded from thousands of people walking over it lo these many years now, but it is still visible.
Errata for Rocks State Park:
This section will contain any errata for/corrections to information in the guidebook itself.
Route #3, Biceptennial, is drawn slightly incorrect in the second topo photo. At the roof it pops left then up, when it should be reflective and curve right then up the corner above the roof.
The route Toast, #36, should be listed as being 5.9+, not 5.8.
BREAKAWAY WALL:
![[Vertical Wall]](vertical.jpeg)
Vertical ascends the crack/flake just right of center
through the small roof, then angles up and left to the top. Piney is
the roof in the upper right skyline of the photo. Mike's Finger Buckets
follows the line just left of center.
This is the 'main wall' of Rocks State Park, accessible only by an exposed 5.1 downclimb scramble down past the Pinnacle. Please be very careful when going down/up this area (especially when it's wet). A fall could be terminal (see earlier note about body recoveries). Rope up if you have to, okay?
The wall is south-facing, and rises 65-80' high. There is a lower platform and an upper platform (which also serves as the base for Epitaph Wall), a height difference of 15'. The lower platform offers a tree and some cracks (finger-sized to fist-sized) for pro. The upper platform houses a nice column tucked in a corner, which most people use as a primary anchor for Breakaway Right, Superbulge, and Mike's.... You'll want gear, though for a backup anchor, or for setting up Breakaway Left and other routes to the left of that.
The Breakaway Wall hosts the longest top-rope routes in this guide, pushing 80+ feet in length. Be sure your rope ends reach the ground before trying these climbs!
There are a number of other routes, lead only, exist between Green Subtrafuge and the King/Queen's Seat area, varying difficulty levels, from moderate to hard. Some are top-rope problems, but a handful two-pitch leads, or 120+ foot top-ropes are piled inbetween.
The following routes do not appear in the current edition of the book. The first is located on the lower broad ledge at the top of Vertical. The second next to Shark Tooth. The third is a new route put up by Nick Crowhurst of England.
Blister 5.10c - Mainly a boulder problem, but you'll want a spotter in case you slip and stumble - it's a hell of a drop off the edge down Vertical! So please take care. From the broad ledge at the top of Vertical, below the Epitaph Wall ledge at the top of Breakaway, find the large vertical crack in the corner. Climb up the thin face immediately left of the crack. Using the edge of the crack for your right hand is considered "on". The name derives itself from a crystal about 8-9' up on the right that you lock your thumb onto as you are making the upper moves on the problem.
Jumpin' Jack Flash 5.11a/5.11c - Climb the short and fairly blank face just right of Shark Tooth. If you do not throw for the right edge arete at the crux, the climbing stays at 11c. If you use the right edge before the undercling (beware that wasps use this as their home, too), the climbing is 11a. Be sure you're up for some seriously sharp holds.
Horizontal 5.8 (G/PG) - ~100'. In fine British tradition, a horizontal traverse route! This was a vision of Nick Crowhurst, and put up by he and Indy. While you could top-rope most of this from one anchor point above Superbulge, this is probably best done on lead. Begin by climbing up the gully/chimney of Green Subtrafuge until you are beneath the roof. Begin traversing out right (there is no real good place to put gear in until you are under the Green Subtrafuge roof). Hand-traverse the ledge of Breakaway Left to the formidable Breakaway Block (protection here is good), then stem/bridge beneath the Breakaway Block roof to gain the bomber bucket hold on Breakaway Right. Continue following the horizontal line of weakness right to another, smaller ledge that ends 20 or so feet above Mike's Finger Buckets. Step up onto this ledge and traverse right another 6-8' to the parallel Vertical cracks. Climb up another 4-5' to the thin horizontal crack at the top of the parallel Vertical cracks. Delicately continue the traverse right, following this seam around to the slab face beneath the Piney roof. Just as things get really thin, there is a large bucket hold you can reach blindly just past the corner. Continue traversing right until you can step off onto blocks near The Pinnacle. If you are leading you might consider setting up a (hanging) belay either at the end of the ledge above Mike's or in the Vertical cracks.
Breakaway Direct - this was noted as 5.11 in the guide; it is more correctly rated 5.12-.
Breakaway Bulge 5.13 (R/X) - this is a slightly contrived route. Climb Super Bulge until you are through the crux. Now, instead of continuing on up, traverse left until under the Breakaway block roof, and finish by climbing Breakaway Direct.
EPITAPH WALL:
The following few short routes are located above the Breakaway Ledge, and access the summit section directly. Need medium to large pro to set up top-rope anchors up top for these routes. There is a quick and exposed 2-move 4th-class traverse (don't fall!) on the north side of the rock to access this broad ledge.
Note: Be damned careful if you boulder the wall left of Slimey! At least one person missed a hold, stumbled on their fall, and continued on down to the base of the rock while bouldering (March 2003, in fact :-( ). Just be careful, okay?
THE PINNACLE:
The only way to set top-ropes up here is to do a lead or solo. Easiest is to clamber up the west edge route on The Pinnacle. Second easiest is the route is to follow the crack left of Better Balance on the north face of the Pinnacle (medium to large pro; watch for the loose block near the crux). The anchors up top are a couple of bolts.
There are some easy cracks on the northeast side of the Pinnacle, left of Better Balance, but almost no one climbs these anymore.
NORTH WALL:
This is the mostly rounded wall which most people either walk past without a second look or set up some very easy stuff for beginners to play on. There are some short but keep-your-attention routes here, also.
BEGINNER AREA:
This is approximately 70' uphill from the Pinnacle where the rock is a low-angled round wall cut by a right-arching crack. This is a popular spot for beginner classes to set up.
BICEPS WALL:
Located behind the King & Queen's Seat, on the west side of the south-facing wall.
Anchors are generally off the boulders behind the King & Queen's Seat block. Access to the base of the climbs descends down the steep erosion trail to the right of the rocks, cutting back to the cliff face at your best opportunity.
MOBY DICK WALL:
GPS coords:
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A seriously overhanging boulder problem. Has only seen a few successful attempts.
SMOKE'N'ASH:
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°38.069'
Long: W076°24.729'
This is about 300' south of Vertical, buried in the woods. When the leaves are off the trees you can catch a glimpse of rock out there.
There are other routes on the main rocks of Rocks State Park. More info will be added later. A rough online map exists at http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/EM1/rocksair.html
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°41.557'
Long: W076°25.608'
This is a small outcropping of rock immediately next to Falling Branch waterfall, the second highest waterfall in Maryland. There is climbing here, but route information is unavailable at this time. This park is a subsection of Rocks State Park.
Directions:
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°40.778'
Long: W076°29.914'
Just off of the end of Madonna Road, along Deer Creek, sits this subsection of Rocks State Park. There is limited parking along the road. A trail follows the creek upstream a little less than 1/2 mile to the climbing area. There is not a lot of room at the base of the rocks for belaying, as the creek is right behind you, so be aware with how you place your rope, gear, packs and other stuff around so other people who are just walking through can do so without tripping over your stuff.
Directions: From Baltimore follow MD 146 to an intersection with Rte 23 (complete with blinking red light, stop signs), about 16 miles north of the I-695 beltway in Towson. Continue straight onto Madonna Rd and follow that a few miles until it ends at a T-intersection with XXXX and XXXXX. Turn left and park in the small area on the left. Follow the flat trail from the parking lot to the rocks.
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There is some climbing up and down the Susquehanna River in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Much of this is on private land (90% of that you should steer clear of!), but there is a little on public land. Specifically the old quarry in the Susquehanna State Park.
The rock here is a granite, like that across the river at Port Deposit. It is of pretty good quality, but there IS loose rock around - be careful!. There is climbing upwards of 5.9 or so in difficulty. Probably not a destination for your way-honed hardman climber, but a nice diversion from all the other places around.
Access to this little crag is difficult for now. Either you can canoe in along the river, or walk along the old canal tow path, following the railroad tracks (be careful that you have to work around some questionable bridges). Please keep clear of private property, and if confronted about trespass issues, please don't get all up in arms with the nearby landowners. The Park is trying to get a trail system in, and any antagonistic actions between you and the local landowners will hamper their efforts.
Ultimately it is hoped that the Greenways Trail System will be finished to go up/down the Susquehanna, and when it is done, the trail will take you right past the rocks. Access at that point will be a LOT easier! Just be patient for the time being, okay?
As with all Park property, there is NO bolting allowed on this rock.
TRAVELLER'S ADVISORY: as of Aug 2001, there have been numerous break-ins of cars (convertibles seem most vulnerable) at the various crags up and down the Susquehanna (whether the crags are on private or public land makes not much difference). The Cauldron (a private land area and will probably ultimately be closed to climbing in any event; the landowners are cracking down on trespassers via the state troopers) has seen over 30 car break-ins in the past 3-4 months - WARNING! Don't take valuables with you and leave them in the car! Out of sight or not. This should go for most all areas, but it seems the Susquehanna region is being plagued more with assholes who get off on this sort of thing [breaking into cars and vandalism]. Thanks to Joanna of Baltimore for the warning (who also suffered from the predations of these [censored] [censored] [censored] people).
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39° 25.277'
Long: W 076° 26.008'
There is a small outcropping of rock east of Rt 1 in the Big Gunpowder Falls State Park. It is not very big, it is tucked away a bit off the path that follows the north shore, and doesn't see a lot of traffic. Some might consider these boulder problems; others might want to drop a rope. More detailed information to come in the near future.
There are 5 individual rock outcroppings here, noted as Rock 1, Rock 2, Toby Rock, Starship Trooper Rock, and Rock 5.
ROCK 1
This is the first boulder that you come to from the Lost Pond Trail. The access path splits left and right around this rock. There are a couple of short boulder problems on the dirty face facing the Lost Pond Trail.
ROCK 2
This blocky clump of rock is located ~20' back and to the right of Rock 1. It, too, has a couple of short boulder problems on the face facing the Lost Pond Trail.
TOBY ROCK
This is one of the larger outcroppings in the area, standing nearly 15' and over 30' wide. Its main feature is the large overhang that most routes start with right off the ground. It is about 25' left of and uphill from Rock 1.
STARSHIP TROOPER ROCK
This is another large outcropping that rivals Rock 3 and is 30' to the left of TOBY ROCK. It also starts as a low overhanging wall/roof, but rises a bit higher up than TOBY ROCK does. It is about 20' at its highest.
ROCK 5
Nothing much is known about this outcropping. The trail over to it from Rock 4 is massively overgrown, as no one visits it any.
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This small quarry lies in the woods next to the North Central Railroad Hike'n'Bike trail near Sparks, Maryland. There is a definite trail system that leads to the cliffs, and a fainter trail ~50' further down the NCRR trail that leads to the top to set up anchors.
Anchor set-ups: Trees are fairly abundant up top; no need for gear. But 20'+ slings may be in order to set some routes up. Be extra careful when setting up anchors for routes near the Sentinel Corner, as the terrain up there is an extremely steep dirt/mud slope, from which a slip may be unrecoverable. There are a few nice trees near the edge to anchor off on, but there are also trees further back in the woods as well.
Don't forget to bring a wire brush to clean off the dirt & grit that's run down from the tops after it's rained.
Warning: there is loose rock - some of it quite massive! - in this area. Take extra care and caution when both climbing and belaying! One pair of climbers, with just a gentle tug, pulled off a 1000 lbs boulder from broadway face 2 just recently (mid-July, 2000) that would have crushed the belayer had he been standing directly underneath. The quality of the rock is not 100% great (it is an old quarry, after all!). TAKE CARE WHEN CLIMBING IN THIS AREA!!
Warning #2: THIS AREA IS PRIVATE LAND! Access issues are being investigated (Sept, 2000). Refrain from overt activity in this area until access issues can be sorted out (that or just avoid this place altogether).
The rock here is mostly smooth, quarried from when the railroad was first put in. There are some corners, some cracks, some overlaps, small roofs, and overhangs. The cliff band averages 30-40 feet high, and is nearly 200 feet long from end to bitter end. The place does not see a lot of climber traffic, though there is some evidence of climbers on Che Schifo. Most of the hard stuff (5.11+) appears unclimbed (the named routes are only 'place-savers', until they can be climbed for real). Even though this is an old quarry, leave the rock as it is. If it's too hard for you, either get better or let someone who climbs harder take a crack at it. There's more than enough other rock around to climb without modifying that which is here.
Note: the Sentinel Corner is often wet for a couple of days after it has rained in the area. Kind of a bummer, but...
Warning: Beware of deer ticks that lurk in the woods! There have been no known incidents of late, but this doesn't preclude the fact that they are not there. Lyme disease...you don't want it !
Directions: From I-83, north of Baltimore (and Hunt Valley), get off at exit 24 (Belfast Road). Go east on Belfast road until you come to York Road (can't miss it; Belfast Road ends here). Turn right and go south (back towards Baltimore) for just about 0.4 miles and turn left onto Sparks Road. Continue down Sparks Road a short bit until you come to a one-lane bridge. Immediately past the bridge the road intersects with the North Central Railroad Hike'n'Bike trail. Find a place to park (there are a couple of parking areas in the immediate area). From here go south (downstream) along the path, paralleling the Gunpowder Falls river. Please be courteous and share the trail with the other hikers and bikers (bikers seem to make up 80+% of the traffic on the trail). After about 5 minutes of leisurely hiking you'll pass a house on the left. 5 minutes later you'll come to a definite footpath heading into the woods on your left. Enter the woods on this path, and voila`! Sieta qui! (you are here!) The access trail to the top is a mere 50' past this on the main trail (and is fainter; hunt for it).
The rock band can be divided up into several main sections: Slab Wall, Broadway Wall, Back Wall. The Slab Wall is the first thing you come to off the NCRR trail, and is blank ~80-degree 'slab' featuring a couple left-leaning cracks, some overhangs, and a left-facing corner on the far right. The wall breaks at another, larger left-facing corner. The Broadway Wall starts at this large, left-facing corner (Dirty Dihedral) and goes for about 120' to the left, passing a smaller left-facing corner to a mostly blank wall (with a couple of small cracks/seams and a shallow arch halfway across) to a broad and shallow right-facing corner/wall (Sentinel Corner). After an overgrown section, the Back Yard continues with broken and blocky corners. Routes are described from right to left.
Some of the routes named are 'working names' (eg, Jeanne d'Arc, Joan Left, the Stellar names, Fixed Line). Better than saying 'unknown route x' each and every time. When the route is freed or the first ascent party is found, the name will be updated to the route's given name.
SLAB WALL:
This is the first rock face encountered on the right as you stumble up the path from the NCRR Trail.
sparks slab 1 (5.?) - Follow the face up next to the first left-facing corner using cracks and shelves and whatever is available.
sparks slab 2 (5.?) - To the left of NCRR-SLAB-1, right of the second left-facing corner, go up the face using friction, cracks, ledges, etc.
The
Queen Spider corner on the right end of Broadway Wall; Che
Schifo goes up the face immediately to the left in the center of the
image. The 1000 lbs block formed by the cracks in the upper left corner was
pulled off the wall with just a gentle tug.
BROADWAY WALL:
This broad wall starts with Dirty Dihedral and continues left to the Sentinel Corner, ~120' away.
Dirty Dihedral - Climb the large, 10-foot wide blocky corner to the top. There are three ways to go:
Dirty Dancing (5.3) - 20'. Use a variety of techniques to dance your way up the rightmost corner with the smooth face. Almost a flaring chimney in spots, with some interesting, inobvious moves. If it's feeling awkward, you're missing something.
Dirty Mind (5.3) - 20'. Wear a hat to keep your mind (and head) clean from the dirt above. Climb the middle of the three corners/flaring chimney-like lines up to the top. Easy moves on inobvious holds makes for some interesting climbing.
Dirty Laundry (5.3) - 20'. You will need to do laundry after climbing this grungy route! Plow through the dirt up the leftmost blocky corner next to the face up to the 'gully' above. Be careful (both you and your belayer!) for loose stuff (rocks, dirt, twigs) funnelling down from above.
broadway face 1(5.?) - climb the face left of Dirty Dihedral.
The Queen Spider (5.6) - 25'. Climb up the flaring chimney/left-facing corner ~15 feet left of Dirty Laundry. Surmount the block above to gain a ledge. From the ledge follow large, horizontal cracks up and left to the overhanging headwall (crux) at the top. Good holds. Watch for a large spider in the big cracks above.
Che Schifo (5.7**) - 25'. An Italian phrase, pronounced 'ke skee-fo', this route is nowhere near as disgusting as the translation would lead you to believe. Climb the face on good holds a few feet left of The Queen Spider corner to a large horizontal crack. Trending to the left momentarily, yard up the left-facing flakes using great holds until you gain the left-leaning flake/crack system above. Follow those for a move or two then cut right when they are about to end to finish on the overhanging wall above. Good but inobvious holds allow you to top out if you want.
broadway face 2 (5.11?) - 30'. Start 7 feet left of The Queen Spider, just right of the mini-roof formed by the horizonal crack 5' off the ground. Follow the slightly rust-colored water streak through slopers to a small ledge. Step up and claw your way up the steep wall above (V1). Note: a 1000 lbs boulder was pulled off the the ledge, narrowly missing the belayer. Be careful in this area, hear?
broadway seam (5.13??) - 35'. Several feet left of broadway face 2. Follow the left-trending seam on slopers to the top.
Jeanne d'Arc (5.12/5.13?) - 35'. Start in the middle of the Broadway Face, below the highest point of the shallow arch and above where the green rusted-out hulk of an old automobile is buried. Be careful where you step. Climb up the almost blank face to the arch at it's highest point. Turn the arch and continue on nothing to the top.
Joan Left (5.11d/5.12a) - 35'. 10 feet left of Jeanne d'Arc, follow the thin, left-leaning crack/seam through the arch to the top. Totally blank and smooth. There is a single bolt at the top of the seam, several inches to the right.
broadway face 3 (5.12?) - 35'. Begin 15 feet left of Joan Left, between two sizable trees. Desperate moves up the face with a sloping ledge and a small left-facing 'corner' yields to a small bulge in a blank wall above.
Bob's Route (5.?) - A working name route. Start on the mud-encrusted face directly behind the tree left of broadway face 3. Climb up the wall to the overlap halfway up, then traverse left to the end where the overlap becomes a seam. Finish on Three's Company.
Stellar Atmospheres (5.10/5.11) - This rarified route doesn't have a lot of positive holds on it. Start 7' left of the large tree on the left of broadway face 3, at the base of the boulder/dirt ramp that rises up to the Sentinel Corner. Climb the brown face full of very shallow pockets to the blank wall above. Pull around on the right when you reach the overhanging blocks above. Warning: these large blocks may be loose - be very VERY careful when climbing this route, both as the climber and belayer!! Take proper precautions in case of rock fall! (and a helmet isn't going to do it all alone - not if one of these 1000+ lbs monsters drops on you!
Three's Company (5.11d/5.12a*) - 35'. Starting 5' feet left of Stellar Atmospheres, on the first block partway up the boulder/dirt ramp leading up to the Sentinel Corner. Tricky moves at the bottom are avoided by stepping onto the higher block up left to bomber handholds. After this the climbing gets stiff, fast. Working on good and marginally good holds, follow the black streak studded with bumps and rounds holds up next to the tan, mud-encrusted line to a horizontal seam halfway up. Be careful that some of the good holds may break on you. At the seam find tiny slopers and sloping finger ledges to work the blank but slightly undulating face above to the next horizontal crack that starts the overhanging wall. Yard on up through the overhang using good holds in the cracks. This wall is often soaking wet after it has rained, unfortunately (water seeps through the ground above and out the cracks in the overhang). Warning: some of the large blocks may be loose - be very VERY careful when climbing this route, both as the climber and belayer!! Take proper precautions in case of rock fall! And a helmet isn't going to do it all alone - not if one of these small-car engine-sized monsters drops on you!
Stellar Conquest (5.10/5.11) - This route lies halfway between Three's Company and the Sentinel Corner itself. Starting 5' left of Three's Company, battle your way up the undulations and features in the face to the overhanging blocks above. Pull through the 'hangs, or step left to go around them. Warning: these large blocks may be loose - be very VERY careful when climbing this route, both as the climber and belayer!! Take proper precautions in case of rock fall! (and a helmet isn't going to do it all alone - not if one of these 1000+ lbs monsters drops on you!
Sentinel follows the shallow, wet
corner; A Simple Kind Of Life goes up the wall along the left edge
of the wet section
SENTINEL CORNER:
The Broadway Wall ends here with this right-facing corner face. Past this is a section of overgrown blocky rock before you come to the Back Yard, approximately 50' away. It is unfortunate that the corner itself, as well as the rock upwards of 5-10' on either side (particularly on Broadway Wall) stays wet for days after it has rained in the area.
Warning: the large blocks atop of the routes here may be loose - be very VERY careful when climbing these routes, both as the climber and belayer!! Take proper precautions in case of rock fall!
Sentinel (5.10*) - 30'. Be on your guard if the wall is wet! (and it often is after a good rain). A double-* route if drier. Following the shallow and thin crack in the right-facing corner, step left when you reach the overhanging blocks above and finish (V1) on welcome (and sharp) holds formed by the blocks and cracks.
A Simple Kind Of Life (5.10a*) - 30'. Not so simple a climb, although fairly straight forward when you know the moves. Start near the center of the face, just left of the micro-nut thin crack several feet left the Sentinel corner. Use inobvious face holds (finger ledges in most cases) and the thin crack to welcome holds at the horizontal break 20' above you (there was a 'downed' tree immediately left of this route in the 1990s, still hanging on with a few roots in the first horizonal break, hiding a few nice 'exit' holds from the face; the climbing's not that much harder if you don't use them to get off the face). Finish past the blocks on the last few moves of Sentinel.
sentinel face 1 (5.10) - 30'. Starting at the far left side of this wall, several feet left of A Simple..., layback up the small right-facing corner, arcing over to gain the horizontal breaks above. Traverse right and finish past the blocks on Sentinel.
THE BACK YARD:
There are only a few routes worth climbing in the back half of this quarry. Most of the rock back here is block and/or heavily overgrown with vegetation. Setting top-ropes up on many of these routes is nigh impossible (due to the slope of the ground above and the fence which seperates the mowed property with the woods). ~30 past the Sentinal Wall is a stack of broken rock and a large boulder that form a small 'cave' or cavity. This starts The Back Yard.
Fixed Line (5.?) - another route with a working name until I can learn what the first ascent people are calling it. Just left of the cavity at the start of The Back Yard is a finger crack that jaggedly works its way up the wall. Follow this past a bolt or two (first bolt may be a rivet) to a second horizontal seam (just past the upper bolt). Step right around the outside corner and go up the friction wall past two bolts (upper bolt may be the rap station). Gear to lead this consists of small nuts, camming devices, RURPs.
GPS coords:
Lat: N 39°28.015'
Long: W076°58.167'
Morgan Run Natural Environment Area is a small little place off of Klee Mill Road. The rock is not tall - 20' or so high - but it offers a quick area to get to (maybe 100' from the parking area) plus a small collection of random boulder problems tossed further back into the little river valley here. The main slab hosts only 3-4 top-rope problems.The rest of the climbing in the area is bouldering (though you might want a crash pad and/or spotter for some of it).
Beware that ticks infest the woods during those warmer months. Use whatever means necessary to prevent these nasty buggers from sucking on you and possibly giving you a present back that you really don't want (e.g., Lyme Disease, Rocky Mtn Spotted Fever).
![[Megan climbing <i>Gamma Flake</i>]](morgan-run-megan.jpg)
Megan Moore climbing Gamma Flake
Most of the routes on the main wall were named once, but the gentleman who named them had vanished from the area prior to my being able to track him down, and the person who knew who he was also disappeared, so the names given are
Directions:
(note: the road name "changes" between "Klee Mill" and
"Klees Mill", depending from what direction you get on the road;
whichever, it's just a minor issue so Klee/Klees is the same road throughout).
From northern Baltimore take I-795 west towards Westminster until it ends (~8 miles from I-695). Follow Rte 140 towards Westminster for another 3.75 miles and turn left at the intersection of 140 and Rte 91 (stop light). Take Rte 91 ~3.5 miles to Rte 32 in Gamber, and turn right onto 32. Take Rte 32 for 1.4 miles to Klees Mill Road and turn left. Foll
![[fin rock]](fin-rock.jpeg)